One very important and often overlooked aspect of skin care is proper exfoliation. Without proper exfoliation, pores can get blocked, oil and sebum conglomerate and the risk of infection, acne, and numerous other skin conditions grows astronomically.  Many of us are now taking better care of our skin due in part to greater awareness of deadly skin conditions like nodular melanoma (the deadliest form of skin cancer with less than a 10 percent 5 year survival rate).  We use softer cleansers so we don’t strip away our skins moisture and dry it out like harsh soaps do.  We use higher SPF (Sun Protection Factor) sun lotions to protect our skin and shield us from harsh UV rays and the aging effects of the sun.  Women, as a whole, spend billions of dollars on skin care products to look younger.  Most, however, still overlook the importance of proper and routine skin exfoliation.

Exfoliation is the process of removing the outer most layer of skin cells which reveals the younger, fresher and healthier looking skin underneath.  For most practical purposes, the outermost layer of skin consists of dead skin cells.  These dead skin cells if allowed to stay too long can cause clogged pores, acne and numerous other skin conditions and maladies.  Through exfoliation we remove these dead skin cells and allow the skin to breathe.  Proper exfoliation can also result in increased production of collagen which is considered to be one of the holy grails of skin care and anti aging skin treatments.  Collagen, if you didn’t already know is  responsible for making the skin look younger and more plump.  Without proper levels of collagen, skin looks wrinkled, dried out and very unhealthy. 

Proper exfoliation can be done in several different ways:

1)      Microdermabrasion. 

2)      Dermabrasion.

3)      Light “lunchtime” skin peels.

4)      Deeper skin peels (like TCA peels and the Obagi Blue Peel).

5)      Laser treatment and therapy.

The first, microdermabrasion is the most popular, but also the least effective of the 5 methods of exfoliation.  Microdermabrasion uses very fine particles or crystals to polish th skin and lightly abrade the skin.  You may have seen these kits advertised on TV or at your local Walmart.  They are barely effective if at all and most of the advertising associated with these kits and star endorsements are listed with the FTC (Federal Trade Commision) as gross misstatements or in some cases as complete lies. 

Dermabrasion is literally controlled sand blasting of the face or use of a dermabrader tool with a sanding effect.  Either will achive a sanding effect which will remove several layers of skin similar to a deeper skin peel or exfoliation (The only difference is that dermabrasion is not associated with a gain in collagen production as deeper skin peels like a TCA peel are).  Dermabrasion is usually done as an outpatient treatment in a doctors office or medi spa.  Usually it is performed by the doctor as there is a higher risk of skin stretching and scarring if it is done incorrectly.

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A light skin or chemical peel can be helpful for exfoliation, but will only affect the outer most layer of skin (higher concentrations can have deeper results, however).  Usually glycolic acid an AHA (alpha hydroxyl acid) is used as it is derived from sugar and few people have allergies and/or reactions to its use on their skin.  Light skin peels are sometimes referred to as lunchtime peels as they can be done in under 20 minutes and have little or no downtime.  So the person having it done can literally go right back to work.  Another chemical peel that is sometimes used is salicylic acid.  Salicylic acid is a BHA (Beta Hydroxyl acid) which is oil and not water soluble.  This is helpful with light acne as water soluble treatments like glycolic cannot penetrate blocked or filled oil glands. 

A deeper skin peel like the infamous TCA skin peel (as seen on Dr. 90210, and numerous other beauty and makeover reality TV shows) and the Obagi Blue Peel is similar in results to a deeper dermabrasion, but with less risk.  Unlike with a dermabrader tool which will keep abrading until turned off, TCA (trichloroacetic acid), the main ingredient of a TCA peel, will self neutralize.  This makes it safer for application.  Deeper skin peels and chemical peels have also been documented to increase collagen production as an added after effect – something dermabrasion and laser therapy are not known for. 

Similar in effect to the deeper skin peels and TCA peels, laser therapy is the last of these exfoliation methods.  It is every bit as effective as the deeper skin and chemical peels, but can only be performed by a licensed doctor and is very costly (around $2000 for only one or two treatments). 

According to Dr. Ben Levinson of PresbyterianHospital, “Proper exfoliation of the skin will result in cleaner and healthier skin.  To properly exfoliate a chemical peel like the TCA peel or laser peeling along with proper hydration is key.”  So, it is important to also stay properly hydrated during exfoliation.  Proper exfoliation will result in healthier skin and less risk of infections like acne.  Article courtesy of Bestskinpeel.com